Hoi allemaal, daar zijn we weer!
Na prachtige dagen in de wildernis van Mongolië zijn we in de hoofdstad Ulaan bataar aangekomen. Laten we maar meteen beginnen, want we hebben erg veel meegemaakt. Het is zoveel dat we besloten hebben het over meerdere blogs te verdelen. In deze blog lezen jullie alles over onze reis naar Mongolië toe en de eerste twee dagen.
De reis
Dinsdag 9 augustus vertrokken wij ’s ochtends vanaf het Baikalmeer naar Irkutsk om ’s avonds de trein te pakken richting Mongolië. In Irkutsk hebben we het heel rustig aan gedaan. We hebben wat koffie gedronken, wat souvenirtjes gekocht en de tijd uitgezeten. ’s Avonds stapten wij de trein in voor een reis van ongeveer 32 uur. Een eitje vergeleken met de vier dagen die we gehad hadden. Deze rit deelden wij onze coupé met anderen. Het is toch altijd even afwachten wie er in je coupé zitten, maar wij hadden geluk! Het was een stel uit Oostenrijk van ongeveer onze leeftijd. We hebben lekker gekletst, een nieuw spelletje van ze geleerd (the game without a name) en nummers uitgewisseld. Het is erg makkelijk contact maken als je allemaal met hetzelfde avontuur bezig bent. Erg leuk om mee te maken.
We gingen van Rusland naar Mongolië, dus daar hoort een grenscontrole bij. Een beruchte, zo hadden wij gehoord. Lang wachten, weinig actie en autoritaire Russen zouden in ons vooruitzicht liggen. Wij hadden ons dus al lichtelijk voorbereid. De waarschuwingen kwamen uit. We moesten twee uur wachten op niks, toen weer 10 minuten rijden, om vervolgens weer 2 uur te stoppen. Wat de Russen en Mongolen in die uren gedaan hebben, weet eigenlijk niemand. Op het moment dat we Rusland uit reden waren we vier uur en drie controles verder. De tassen werden gecontroleerd en de paspoorten ook twee keer. De politie is erg streng en autoritair. Dit was ook wel te zien aan hun uiterlijk. De baas van de ploeg liep als een legercommandant heen en weer over de gang, iets wat ons nogal melig maakte.
Tijdens een van de stops zagen we mensen naar buiten gaan. Dit verraste ons omdat we dachten dat dit niet mocht. Enfin, wij gingen ook even een luchtje scheppen om naar het toilet te gaan. Toiletten worden in de namelijk afgesloten als we stil komen te staan. We renden door de regen, gingen plassen en snel weer terug. Op het moment dat we weer terug de trein in wilden, werd de deur voor ons neus dicht gedaan! ‘Njet, njet’, zei de provodnika. Buiten stormde en waaide het, het was erg koud. Daar stonden we dan buiten in de regen samen met nog andere wagon genoten te kijken hoe onze trein wegreed! Niemand snapte er iets van. Er was ook niks wat we konden doen. Op onze slippers door de regen zijn we maar gaan schuilen in een gebouw bij de grens. Hier was de Mongoolse dame die daar werkte niet zo blij mee. Ze vertelde ons om weg te gaan. We besloten maar te wachten op het bordeel van het gebouwtje. Toen we daar eenmaal stonden, moesten we ook best heel erg lachen. Het was een bizarre situatie, in een bizar gezelschap, zonder enig idee wat er ging gebeuren. Samen met enkele Engelsen en Spanjaarden waren we maar al te blij dat we in ieder geval onze paspoorten bij ons hadden, maar wisten we zelf ook niet wat we moesten doen. De boze Mongoolse dame sprak gebrekkig (lees: geen) Engels en leek ons meer uit te lachen. Er werden slechte grappen gemaakt en de sfeer zat er, wonder boven wonder, nog steeds goed in. Maar toch, waar was onze trein?
Na tien minuten kwam de trein gelukkig weer aanrijden. Wij gingen juichend en joelend gauw naar binnen. We zijn tijdens geen van de andere stops nog naar buiten gegaan, haha! Uiteindelijk bleek dat de trein meerdere coupés moest vastmaken aan de trein. Hier heeft de trein de ruimte voor nodig dus rijdt hij een stuk door. Het gebeurde namelijk nogmaals toen we wel droog en veilig in de trein zaten.
Na opnieuw heeeeel lang wachten begon de trein weer te rijden. Dat was fijn! Je zag dat we het Russische land verlieten en het Mongoolse land binnen kwamen door allerlei afzettingen, hekken en belangrijke borden. Helaas stopte de trein opnieuw. De Mongoolse grens mocht ons ook nog twee keer controleren. De Mongoolse mensen hadden een vriendelijkere uitstraling dan de Russische mensen. Dit maakte het geheel wel gemoedelijker. Ook bij de Mongoolse grens controleerden de mensen onze paspoorten en backpacks.
Na weer enkele uren wachten mochten we doorrijden, en bovenal eindelijk lekker slapen. Het was een korte nacht, de volgende ochtend waren we om 7:00 in Ulaan bataar. Vanwege de tijdverschillen is het soms moeilijk voor onze lichamen om het allemaal bij te houden.
Er stond keurig een chauffeur op ons te wachten. Hij bracht ons naar een guesthouse waar we even konden douchen. Hier hebben we even ontbeten en spraken we enkele andere reizigers. We kletsten met een Australiër, de reisleider en zelfs nog een Nederlands meisje! Altijd leuk, even een beetje Holland op een vreemde plek. Om 9:00 begon onze tour. We ontmoeten onze tourguide en driver voor vijf dagen. Achteraf gezien wisten we eigenlijk helemaal niet zo goed wat ons te wachten stond. Om de mooie dagen te omschrijven heb ik het opgedeeld in vijf dagen.
Dag 1
Onze tourguide heet Takki en onze driver heet gewoon ‘driver’. Over de juistheid van deze namen kan getwijfeld worden, aangezien we het zelf ook niet echt meer weten. We stapten in een erg grote shiny auto. Het leek wel een soort Jeep. Het was erg luxe en het zat lekker. Takki vertelde ons dat het schema ietwat was omgegooid. Dit was uiteindelijk prima en werkte alleen maar in ons voordeel. Eenmaal onderweg vertelde Takki ons dat we naar een klooster en een boeddhistische tempel in een belangrijke stad uit het Mongoolse verleden zouden gaan. We vertrokken in westelijke richting uit de Mongoolse hoofdstad richting Kharhorin, de hoofdstad van het Mongoolse rijk van Genghis Khan (leider van rijk ter grootte van het moderne Azië). De eerste 150 km zagen we helemaal niks. Met open mond keken we naar de prachtige weg.
Het waren uitgestrekte landen met heuvels, kudden paarden, geiten, Ger’s (dit is de tent waar nomaden in wonen) en koeien. Na 150 km kwamen we een tankstation tegen met een klein restaurantje waar we onze eerste Mongoolse lunch op hebben gegeten. Na zo een lange tocht moest de wc ook even bezocht worden. Dit was een gat in de grond. Hier konden we toen nog om lachen, nu zijn we verbaasd als we een toilet zien.
Ons toilet
Na deze lunch hadden we nog 200 km te gaan voor we aankwamen in Kharhorin. De wegen werden steeds slechter. Op een gegeven moment zei Takki: ‘Mongolian highway’, terwijl de driver een zandweg op draaide. We dachten dat ze een grapje maakte, maar niets bleek minder waar: we reden naast de asfalt weg, omdat die ‘gerenoveerd’ zou worden. De kracht van de natuur was echt adembenemend, zelfs na 350 kilometer verveelde deze totaal niet.
7 uur en 350 kilometer later waren we er dan: de hoofdstad van het oude Mongoolse rijk. We hebben een museum bezocht over de archeologische bevindingen van Kharhorin. In de 21e eeuw zijn er verschillende opgravingen geweest die veel hebben betekend voor de Mongoolse geschiedenis. Uit de opgravingen hadden de archeologen een machete gemaakt van de stad 500 jaar geleden. Het enige wat hier nu nog duidelijk van te zien is, is het Erdene Zuu klooster.
Het klooster was omringd door indrukwekkende muren. Binnen vond je naast het klooster ook nog een Boeddhistische tempel. In Mongolië geloven veel (volgens Takki nog atlijd +/- 70%) in het Boeddhisme. De tempel zelf was mooi, maar vooral de omgeving (de gebouwen en de tuinen) vonden wij indrukwekkend.
Na een lange dag gingen wij naar onze eerste verblijfplaats. Wij maakten kennis met de Mongoolse ger. Takki vertelde ons dat er drie miljoen mensen in Mongolië leven. 1,5 miljoen mensen wonen in de hoofdstad Ulaan bataar. De rest van de mensen heeft zich verspreid over ‘the country-side’ van Mongolië. Zij leven voornamelijk in Ger’s. Dit zijn tenten die makkelijk zijn op te zetten en af te breken, en kosten weinig geld. Dit is nodig voor het nomadenleven, omdat de verblijfplek in de winter en zomer anders is en de nomaden een minimaal inkomen hebben. De nomaden hebben geen stromend water en beperkt elektriciteit. In deze Ger hadden wij wel stroom, Takki waarschuwde ons om onze elektra op te laden, want dit was waarschijnlijk de laatste keer deze week waarin dat zou kunnen.
In de winter kan het in Mongolië -40 graden worden. Wij vonden het moeilijk voor te stellen dat je dan in zo’n ‘simpel’ tentje slaapt, want wij hadden het al aardig koud. Wij genoten van de prachtige uitzichten en gingen voldaan slapen na een indrukwekkende eerste dag Mongolië.
Dag 2
’s Ochtends kregen wij een heerlijk ontbijtje van Takki bestaande uit een eitje, een worstje en (droog) brood. Voordat we onze volgende 110 km over onverhard wegdek zouden beginnen gingen wij volgens goed geloof langs de plaatselijke Turtle Rock van Kharhorin. Mongoolse mensen zijn intens bijgelovig. Veel van deze bijgeloven stammen af uit het Boeddhisme. Bij de Turtle rock breng je respect aan de schildpad, zodat hij jou een veilige reis bezorgt. Een schildpad staat symbool voor de kracht die je nodig hebt voor een (lange) reis vanwege zijn lange levensduur en zijn sterke schild. Bij een grote stad als Kharhorin stond er bij elke grote uitgang (4, 1 in elk van de windrichtingen) een kleine Turtle. De grote versie zouden wij later deze week bewonderen. We liepen drie rondjes om het standbeeld bij de kleine schildpad heen zodat we een veilige reis zouden hebben. Ondanks dat Jan er niet helemaal in geloofde hebben we zelfs nog drie steentjes richting het standbeeld gegooid om de traditie te eren.
Vanaf de schildpad hadden we een prachtig uitzicht over de voormalige hoofdstad van Mongolië.
Met een veilige reis in het vooruitzicht gingen wij richting de Orkhon watervallen. De eerste veertig kilometer gingen over de matige, met gaten bezaaide, snelwegen van Mongolië. Daarna moesten we 70 kilometer door het zand, het gras en de modder. Het is hier namelijk regenseizoen en het had drie dagen eerder (de dag voordat wij aankwamen, YES) flink geregend en dit was te zien. Naarmate de omgeving meer steen liet zien besloten de driver en Takki de krachten te bundelen met twee andere groepen die richting de watervallen gingen. We haalden de groepen bij terwijl zij aan het picknicken waren. Hier had ik weer even de tijd om enkele prachtige plaatjes van de omgeving te schieten.
Enkele kilometers verder kwamen wij door het Orkhon national park (niet de plaats, helaas, met de watervallen). De omgeving werd alleen maar mooier. Ook verschillende diersoorten zorgden voor adembenemende foto’s.
Het was maar goed ook dat de verschillende groepen toeristen op elkaar gewacht hadden. Enkele kilometers later kwamen wij langs een enorme modderpoel, waar de nodige auto’s strandden. Onze bolide kwam er gemakkelijk doorheen, maar de hulp die wij konden bieden werd gewaardeerd.
Toen wij ’s avonds rond 1700 alle stenen, modderpoelen en zandweggetjes overleefd hadden kwamen wij bij de mooiste slaapplaats van de week: een Ger bij de Orkhon watervallen.
We sliepen nu echt in de middle of nowhere. 70 kilometer over onverharde wegen kostten ons 5 uur rijden, maar dit zorgde voor een unieke ervaring. Geen elektriciteitsmast te zien, maar enkel tientallen dieren (o.a. jakken, koeien, geiten, paarden en roofvogels) betoverden ons beeld. Een klein geitje kwam ons gedag zeggen.
Hier hadden de nomaden wèl stromend water in de buurt, maar hier konden ze echter niet van drinken. De watervallen lagen op 100 meter van onze slaapplaats en waren schitterend.
’s Avonds kregen wij weer een prakkie van Takkie (Shewa lacht nu nog steeds om deze hilarische one-liner): aardappelen, groente en vlees met een Mongoolse schwung. In onze primitieve Ger gingen wij slapen op een primitief bed. Het leek net alsof we op een houten plank sliepen, o-nee, dit deden we ook (Jan vond deze woordspeling weer erg leuk).
Een prakkie van takkie
We gaan nu even genieten van een heerlijke Chinese maaltijd en laten jullie snel meer weten over onze Mongoolse avonturen.
Liefs van Jan en Shewa
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